Zodiac Horse Gallops onto the Stage
Independent Chinese designer Wei Donghui has partnered with global brand H&M to produce a line of clothing for the New Year. [Photo provided to China Daily]
Independent Chinese designer Wei Donghui has partnered with global brand H&M to produce a line of clothing for the New Year.
For generations, wearing new clothes during Spring Festival has marked a symbolic fresh start for Chinese families. Traditionally rendered in vibrant reds and adorned with auspicious zodiac imagery, these festive looks embody hopes for renewal, prosperity, and good fortune.
Today, a new wave of designers is reimagining this ritual — translating cultural heritage into a contemporary visual language that resonates far beyond the holiday itself and opening new pathways for Chinese design on the global fashion stage.
Independent Chinese designer Wei Donghui has partnered with global brand H&M to produce a line of clothing for the New Year. [Photo provided to China Daily]
Ahead of the Year of the Horse, global fashion brand H&M has teamed up with Chinese independent designer label Jacques Wei to unveil a Chinese New Year 2026 collaboration. Drawing inspiration from the zodiac horse, the capsule collection features womenswear and accessories defined by refined tailoring, elegant fabrics, and expressive details that balance strength with fluidity.
"The horse symbolizes strength, freedom, and enterprise — values that carry positive meaning in both Eastern and Western cultures," says designer Wei Donghui.
After studying and working in Paris for several years, Wei returned to China in 2019 to found Jacques Wei. The brand has since gained industry-wide attention for its rebellious yet romantic design language.
Independent Chinese designer Wei Donghui has partnered with global brand H&M to produce a line of clothing for the New Year. [Photo provided to China Daily]
For Wei, the horse is more than a decorative motif. His aim is to capture the horse's vitality, speed, and untamed elegance. This approach is reflected in carefully considered details, from fringe hems that suggest the movement of a galloping horse, to sculptural horsehead metal buckles that convey confidence, and mane-inspired prints on cropped jackets that evoke a sense of raw energy.
The collection also draws from classical imagery in Chinese history. During his research, Wei was particularly inspired by the "winged horse" motif, a pattern that originated in Greek mythology with Pegasus, traveled eastward along the Silk Road through Persia, and was introduced to China during the late Northern Wei Dynasty (386–534), where it profoundly influenced traditional Chinese brocade weaving. Artifacts bearing this image have since been unearthed in the Xinjiang Uygur autonomous region, Gansu province, and Shaanxi province — lasting evidence of Eurasian cultural exchange.
Independent Chinese designer Wei Donghui has partnered with global brand H&M to produce a line of clothing for the New Year. [Photo provided to China Daily]
"It feels like Eastern and Western cultures converge at this very point," Wei explains. Reimagined by the design team, a light, ethereal winged horse appears as a print on selected T-shirts, transforming an ancient symbol into a modern visual statement.
The collaboration itself mirrors this cultural dialogue. In 2024, H&M partnered with Shanghai Fashion Week to launch the Chinese Designer Collaboration Project, supporting emerging Chinese designers in creating collections that are rooted in local culture while engaging with contemporary design. The partnership with Jacques Wei marks the program's second season.
Independent Chinese designer Wei Donghui has partnered with global brand H&M to produce a line of clothing for the New Year. [Photo provided to China Daily]
Sara Gydal Lindquist, manager of H&M Asia Design Hub, notes that as one of China's most closely watched young designers, Wei brings a nuanced cultural perspective, translating the symbolic traits of the zodiac into tangible fashion designs.
"At its core, fashion is a form of emotional expression," Lindquist emphasizes. By drawing inspiration from cultural symbols that consumers recognize and feel connected to, the collaboration seeks to build a deeper emotional bond — particularly with those who appreciate Chinese and Asian cultures.
She adds that H&M is thrilled about this collaboration and hopes it will shine a stronger spotlight on the creativity and growing influence of young Chinese designers in both the Chinese and international fashion industries.
"We are not just seeking to succeed in the Chinese market, but to contribute to its development as a global creative hub," Lindquist says.
Beyond the Chinese mainland, the collection will also be available through selected H&M channels in South Korea, Thailand, Singapore, and Australia.
Wei sees the partnership as an opportunity to introduce Jacques Wei to a broader, multicultural audience, allowing more people to understand and appreciate contemporary Chinese design. The collaboration has also helped the brand gain valuable experience in large-scale commercial operations.
Zodiac-themed New Year fashion, in Wei's view, is a way to express cultural identity and emotional anticipation for the year ahead. "As the most immediate form of self-expression in daily life, clothing makes the ritual of celebration more tangible and more human," he says.
With wearability firmly in mind, Wei has deliberately expanded the collection beyond traditional festive contexts. In addition to bright red, the collection incorporates dark camel, agate gray, and moonlight blue, creating a layered, modern sensibility that transitions effortlessly into everyday wardrobes.
Ultimately, Wei hopes every woman wearing the collection will feel its message of "strength, freedom, and enterprise". Unbound by occasion, the pieces are designed to accompany women wherever confidence takes them.
"Just embracing your true self," he says. "I'm excited to see how everyone interprets the collection in their own way."