Blue Calico Printing and Dyeing Techniques

Blue calico, known as "medicated spotted cloth" in the Song Dynasty, is a traditional Chinese textile dyeing craft with a long history.

Hunan Province is a major production area for blue calico, with Fenghuang and Shaoyang counties being the most prominent.

The technique in Tuojiang Town (Fenghuang) dates back to the Western Han. The Ming Dynasty book Tiangong Kaiwu recorded indigo extraction methods. Blue calico is divided into plain blue (without patterns, for clothing and scarves) and patterned blue (with complex designs, for quilts, curtains, etc.). Production involves carving stencils, applying paste, dyeing, and other steps. Artisan Liu Dapao developed double-sided blue calico, a precious technique. Only about ten family workshops remain, with most artisans aged, placing the craft at risk.

Shaoyang blue calico originated in the Tang Dynasty, with a history of over 1,400 years. According to local records, artisans replaced wax with soybean milk and lime, adapting Miao batik techniques. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, Shaoyang became the largest production center in central-south China. Its patterns are rustic and delicate, often inspired by folklore and auspicious motifs, reflecting aspirations for a better life.