From Buddhism to Beyond Meat

Vegan noodles at Longhua Temple, Shanghai (COURTESY PHOTO)

One sunny spring day, I visited Longhua Temple in Shanghai, a historical Buddhist temple known for its stunning architecture and serene atmosphere. As I wandered through the temple's lush gardens and dazzlingly yellow-and-red-colored buildings, where young people were taking photos and older people were praying for good fortune, I could not help but feel a sense of peace. However, the highlight of my visit was eating their delicious vegan noodles. Packed with veggies, tofu and mushrooms and served in a savory, yet slightly sweet broth, it was the perfect way to end my temple trip. As a vegetarian of almost a decade, visiting temples and trying their meatless, cruelty-free dishes has become one of my favorite things to do in China.

Various forms of vegetarianism and veganism have been a part of Chinese culture for centuries, with Buddhist monks advocating a vegetarian diet as a way to show compassion for all living beings. Buddhism in China is thought to date back to the Han Dynasty (206 B.C.-A.D. 220), and gained popularity and prominence during the Tang Dynasty (618-907). During this time, cooking and food preparation techniques were developed that have had a huge influence on modern-day vegetarian and vegan cooking.

One example is suji, which literally translates to vegetarian chicken. Dating back to the Southern and Northern Dynasties (420-589), this dish is made by using soy protein to create a texture that resembles meat. It is often flavored with soy sauce, ginger and scallions. Compared to suya (or vegetarian duck), which is believed to originate from the Tang Dynasty, suji's modern-day popularity is stronger, in my subjective opinion. Today, a large portion of restaurants nationwide still serve suji, and it is mostly served as a side dish or as a supplement to a bowl of noodles.

Suji and suya were among the earliest "incarnations" of plant-based meat. In the West, plant-based meat has been growing in popularity. In 2022, the plant-based meat market in the United States was worth $8 billion. Some of the biggest American firms in this industry, such as Impossible Foods and Beyond Meat, use some of the same ingredients and techniques that were developed in Tang and Song (960-1279) dynasties in China. Beyond Meat has now set up a research and development center in Jiaxing Economic and Technological Development Zone near Shanghai to develop new products in the country that first invented plant-based meat.

In recent years, vegetarianism and veganism have become increasingly popular in China, with over 50 million people following a vegetarian diet by some estimates. This makes China home to the second largest number of non-meat eaters behind India. This spike in popularity is partly due to concerns about health and the environment, as well as a growing awareness of animal welfare issues. The rise in interest in animal-free diets in China has been accompanied by a growing number of businesses dedicated to filling this demand. For instance, Green Monday, a Hong Kong-headquartered plant-based food group, makes products more suited to the Chinese market. Whereas Beyond Meat and Impossible Foods' main products are alternatives to beef, Green Monday's primary products are alternatives to pork, the most consumed meat in China. There are also dozens of trendy vegetarian and vegan restaurants in large cities like Shanghai, mostly frequented by younger Chinese, expats and Buddhists alike.

Despite the level of sophistication vegetarian and vegan culture has reached in modern-day China, nothing quite beats the vegan food at Buddhist temples, which can be found nationwide. As I finished my bowl of noodles at Longhua Temple, a feeling of nourishment, both physically and spiritually, overwhelmed me. I could not help but reflect on the history of vegan cooking in China, which makes my choice of giving up meat more enjoyable. Next time you are in China, I hope you go to a local temple, eat a delicious bowl of vegan noodles, and reflect on the history that provided you with such a nutritious meal.